Words by: Shabnam Sidhu
Art by: Jennifer Hoang

As I write this, I am wearing a pair of red patent leather Mary Janes, a pearl necklace and a pink ribbon in my hair. I am at my desk, my freshly painted red nails clicking away on my keyboard. Occasionally, I take a break to sip my strawberry matcha latte and my eyes wander over to the hot pink ‘cunt’ pin that I have carefully placed on top of my holy bible: Sofia Coppola’s ‘Archive’.

Clearly, I have been influenced and am partial to the coquette aesthetic sweeping your feed. It’s the perfect opportunity to embrace a soft, romantic style into your everyday wardrobe and aesthetic, celebrating the nostalgia of girlhood.

Colloquially, the term coquette denotes a flirtatious woman. She lightheartedly flirts with men but in reality, has no genuine affection for them. Through her overtly feminine appeal coupled with her charm and wit, a coquette gets what she wants when she wants.

Today, the coquette aesthetic still emphasises a playful and flirtatious attitude but through dainty and delicate style elements. It is a mixture of ultra-romantic fashion pieces that incorporate bows, ribbons, ruffles, and lace amongst many others, showcasing a timeless feminine appeal.

I have three muses: Marie Antoinette, Sabrina Carpenter and Hello Kitty. They all have one thing in common: they have either pioneered or popularised the coquette aesthetic. Marie Antoinette, the last Queen of France before the French Revolution, was a pioneer of the coquette aesthetic.

As France’s first influencer, she was a trailblazer of high societal women’s fashion trends, adorning herself in luxurious fabrics with intricate designs, opulent jewels, extravagant hairstyles and hats decorated with flowers and ribbons. She wore the most grandiose dresses in beautiful pastel shades as she marched up and down Versailles. While I admire her for her coquettish sense of style, it goes without saying that her extravagant lifestyle contributed to the economic hardship of many French citizens. Her elusiveness did eventually cost her her head. Nonetheless, Marie Antoinette was an 18th century woman who despite being an out-of-touch Queen, independently pursued her own tastes and preferences and was the epitome of what it meant to be coquettish. Her extravagantly feminine disposition and charisma promoted her interests as she created a lavish world of her own, one that was far removed from the political and social struggles of her people.

Fast forward to 2024, the coquette aesthetic has manifested as a way for women to embrace feminine style choices whilst still asserting a sense of agency in both the private and public spheres of their lives. Sabrina Carpenter has redefined what it means to be a woman who is unashamed of her femininity and sexuality. Her appearance and public persona are inherently coquette as she puts on a racy performance whilst donning a mini dress and gogo boots—singing songs that feature playful sexual innuendos. Yet, she has predominantly appealed to young women who desire to be fun and flirtatious in an unserious, girly-pop way. By taking control of her identity, Sabrina Carpenter has confirmed the power of the coquette aesthetic. You can be both ultra-girly and independent at the same time.

Thanks to women like Sabrina’s cheeky way of showing freedom of sexuality, I am inspired to wear my ‘I love sluts’ t-shirt out and about without feeling a sense of shame or judgement. Just like Olive in ‘Easy A’, it’s empowering to reclaim the narrative of derogatory terms used against women in an ironically humorous and coquettish manner. Women have always been degraded for their sexual experiences, so it’s time to be in charge of it instead. Wear that corset with the Renaissance painting on it and stick on a ‘slut’ pin if you’d like. It’s coquette to be feminine and romantic and feel sexually liberated at the same time. Hello Kitty, on the other hand, has a universal appeal. A trailblazer of the coquette style for the last 50 years, she has shown us that you’re never too old to wear a bow and a cute fit. As an embodiment of ‘cute culture’, Hello Kitty has proven to be an eternal symbol of girlhood appealing to both young girls and women alike. She has appealed to a range of cultural subgroups from punk feminists to kawaii enthusiasts, signifying an innocence and love for girlhood that will never be forgotten no matter who you choose to be. Just like Hello Kitty, I hope to one day be a 50-year-old fashion icon with the same youthful confidence I now have in my 20s.

Embracing coquette is to embrace being paradoxical. To be a coquette is to not only adorn yourself with pink ribbons and lace dresses but to also actively pursue your desires with confidence. By having the choice to exercise agency over your own image, the coquette aesthetic resists portraying women as passive objects of male desire. It prioritises autonomy and independence over your style choices as you’re no longer expected to conform to traditional notions of femininity solely for the approval of the male gaze.

Coquette is about embracing womanhood in all its glory. So, it’s ok to like pink, wear a bow and romanticise your life knowing you have the power to define your femininity.